What-are-the-design-principles-of-the-commercial-space-sign-system

1. Iconic principle

General guide information is only about opening hours, product names, floor layouts, etc. A guide system has a unique landmark, which can deepen people's memory and understanding of the surrounding environment.

2. The principle of accessibility

Accessibility refers to the number of paths that can be selected and the ease of guidance to reach a destination. Human beings are using the identification system to recognize the main body of spatial activities. Human beings as cognition are open groups, diversified groups with different cultural backgrounds, different age groups, and different living habits.

3. Visibility and understandability

Visibility means that the content conveyed by the visual guidance system can be clearly seen within a certain distance. People who are active in commercial spaces should consider the characteristics of information received by various groups of people, taking into account the differences in age and activities. Therefore, the guide signs are required to have clear and concise text expressions, so that all kinds of people can easily distinguish the surrounding environment.

4. Inducibility principle

Some human activities need to be completed purposefully, and some activities are completed randomly. Therefore, in addition to guiding the activities that people want to carry out, the design of guide signs must also induce certain activities through design and organization to meet people's potential activity needs.

DC motor nameplate and energy meter nameplate

1. DC motor nameplate

China-made motor models are generally represented by Arabic numerals in uppercase English Chinese pinyin letters, and the format is: the first part uses uppercase pinyin letters to indicate the product code, the second part uses Arabic numerals to indicate the design serial number, and the third part uses Arabic numerals to indicate Frame code, the fourth part uses Arabic numerals to indicate the code of armature core length. Equipment factory makes equipment and machine nameplates:

Take Z2---92 as an example: Z stands for general purpose DC motor; 2 stands for design serial number, the second modification design; 9 stands for frame serial number; 2 armature core length symbol.
The meaning of the first part of the characters is as follows:
Z series: general purpose DC motors (such as Z2, Z3, Z4, etc.)
ZJ series: DC machine for precision machine tools
ZT series: wide speed adjustable DC motor
ZQ series: DC traction motor
ZH series: Marine DC motor
ZA Series: Explosion-proof safety type DC motor
ZKJ series: DC motors for excavators
ZZJ series: DC motors for metallurgical cranes

2. Electric energy meter nameplate

On the nameplate of the electric energy meter, we can see the following terms: single-phase, three-phase, active power, reactive power, etc. The registered model number is also marked on the nameplate: such as DDS×××, the first D is the pinyin prefix of "energy meter", the second D is the pinyin prefix of "single-phase", and S is "stationary type (commonly known as electronic式)" The prefix of "static" in English. "×××" represents different types of electricity meters produced by different enterprises. Our country adopts 220V voltage system, and the frequency of alternating current is 50Hz. Pay special attention to the marked current value: For example, 5(20)A means that the basic current is 5A and the maximum current is 20A.

Overloading of electricity is unsafe, and it is a hidden danger of fire. The nameplate is also marked with signs ① or ②, ① represents the accuracy of the electric energy meter is 1%, or called a level 1 meter; ② represents the accuracy of the electric energy meter is 2%, or called the level 2 meter. It is marked with the standard code, manufacturer, and factory number used by the product.

Solar-LED-luminous-traffic-signs

The light-emitting sign is a hard film board coated with a new type of light-emitting material on the surface. It is a low-level display light source board. The light-emitting sign not only has the indication function of an ordinary sign, but also has an excellent emergency self-luminous function.

Introduction

Luminous signs are a kind of traffic signs, also known as active luminous traffic signs and solar LED luminous traffic signs.

The solar LED luminous traffic sign is a kind of monocrystalline silicon or polycrystalline silicon panel that converts solar energy into electric energy, and uses the storage battery to store electric energy, so as to satisfy the LED luminous tube to display the light, and it is easy to be remotely recognized in the dark night or rainy and foggy weather. The product has the characteristics of green energy, low pressure and safety, easy maintenance, strong light source penetration, and long service life. It has the trend of replacing ordinary directional retroreflective signs. It still has the performance of retro-reflective traffic signs.

Etching-sign-process

A. Surface protection

1. Apply corrosion-resistant photosensitive ink
First choose a 200 mesh screen. The screen version must be extremely clean and of moderate size. Fix it firmly on the professional manual screen printing platform shelf, put the stainless steel plate in the center of the screen plate, keep the edge of the stainless steel plate and the corresponding inner frame of the screen plate at a distance of about 6 cm, too Neither near nor too far is inappropriate. After placing it in the proper position, use scotch tape to stick it around. When sticking, be sure to carefully stick and press with your hand, so that no air bubbles are left between the scotch tape and the screen, so that they can fully contact and apply. The photosensitive ink will not be applied to the outside of the stainless steel plate. The part where there is no transparent tape in the middle is exactly the same as the size of the stainless steel plate, so that the position will be accurate when the corrosion-resistant photosensitive ink is applied. After everything is glued, clean the surface again to keep the screen surface clean.
We choose a 1 cm thick pad and place it behind the screen plate and the shelf panel of the screen printing platform. The distance between them is the net distance. Generally, it is better to make the screen tension large and the screen spacing small, so that it can bounce up in time after printing the ink.
Before using the corrosion-resistant photosensitive ink, adjust the thinness and consistency. In winter, the ink is easy to solidify. You can put it in the oven for a while. The temperature of the oven is set to 88 degrees, let it be automatically controlled, take it out after 5 minutes, stir well, there are no bubbles, like this before it can be used.
Prepare a rubber scraper with an elastic, smooth, and clean surface on the slope.
Put an appropriate amount of photosensitive ink on the yarn surface of the screen to form a strip, and then you can start scraping with a scraper. When scraping, use the right force and the right speed. After scraping 1 or 2 times Open the screen. If the photosensitive ink printed on the stainless steel plate is very uniform in thickness, you can hold it on the reverse side with your hand and take it out, taking care not to stain the side coated with the photosensitive ink.
It should be noted that this is often the case. After scraping twice, the effect is still not good, so give up. Otherwise, the ink is too thick.
In the warm water of about 30 degrees, add an appropriate amount of weakly alkaline sodium carbonate for industrial use, the ratio is about 20:1. After stirring, put the stainless steel plate that is not evenly coated with the photosensitive ink, and the coating will soon be separated from the stainless steel surface. Then wipe off the photosensitive ink thoroughly with a clean cloth, rinse with water, and blow dry with a hair dryer, and you can reprint.
2. Drying
Put the stainless steel plate coated with photosensitive ink in an oven, set the temperature at 88 degrees, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. After drying, set the hair dryer to the cold wind position to cool the stainless steel plate, or let it cool naturally.
B. Exposure
Next, go to kR-B1 single-sided vacuum exposure machine for exposure.
Turn on the power first, the ammeter on the control panel shows 8A-10A, warm up the machine for about 3 minutes, then it can work normally. Align the film and the stainless steel plate and make the two fully contact, then put the stainless steel plate on top and the film film on the bottom, and put them on the worktable of the single-sided vacuum exposure machine steadily.
This air duct is used to suck the vacuum. Put it on one side of the stainless steel plate. Its function is to suck the air between the rubber in the middle of the cover plate and the stainless steel plate, so that the lower surface of the stainless steel plate can compress the film. This can ensure the sharpness during exposure.
Close the lid, lock the hanging buckle, press the vacuum button, and the machine will start vacuuming.
Set the exposure time to 45 seconds and tap the shutter button. At this time, the time relay starts to count, and the ultraviolet light in the kR-B1 single-sided vacuum exposure machine will pass through the transparent part of the film to treat the photosensitive ink. The exposure. After 45 seconds, the shutter closes automatically, the exposure ends, and the time relay is automatically cleared.
Turn off the vacuum button, open the locked hanging buckle, and wait until the vacuum meter is basically reset to zero before you can lift the cover and take out the stainless steel plate and film. This is the stainless steel plate after the exposure, and it appears to the naked eye without any change.
(It should be noted that after the exposure work is completed, it must be 5 minutes, let the lamp in the exposure machine cool down, and then turn off the main power supply)
C. Development
Add sodium carbonate in warm water of about 30 degrees to prepare a solution at a ratio of 20:1 and stir evenly. Put the exposed stainless steel plate into a weak alkaline sodium carbonate solution. The ink on the part that is not exposed will fall off due to the chemical reaction due to the weak alkali. Use a soft and clean cloth to gently scrub the pattern, and the pattern will be slow. Slowly appeared. After the development is over, rinse the residual sodium carbonate on the stainless steel plate and blow it dry with a hair dryer.
D. Revised edition
The stainless steel plate after development should be carefully inspected. If there are spots or damages on the coating part of the pattern, you can use a toothpick to dip it in photosensitive ink for repair. If the repair is not good, it can only be returned to the previous process and reworked.
E. Hard film
Put the repaired stainless steel plate into an oven, and set the oven temperature to 88 degrees, which can increase the bonding force between the coating on the pattern and the surface of the stainless steel, and increase the strength of the surface, which is called hard film. After 10 to 15 minutes, take it out and blow it cold, or let it cool down naturally.
Paste the anti-corrosion protective film on the reverse side of the stainless steel plate of the hard film, so that the reverse side will not be etched and ensure its flatness.
F. Etching
Next, we will perform etching in the KR-J1 precision swing etching machine.
1. Liquid preparation
Used as an etchant is ferric chloride solution. Its Baume concentration is very important in the etching process and directly affects the etching speed. The suitable Baume concentration is between 38 and 40 degrees.
The method of measuring the concentration is: pour the ferric chloride solution into a slender measuring cup, insert the Baume meter, and the value next to the liquid surface is its Baume concentration.
If the Baume concentration is 42 degrees, and some are too thick, we can add water to dilute it, stir it evenly, take a sample and measure it again. If the Baume concentration is too low, you can add a high-concentration ferric chloride solution. After the Baume concentration is properly adjusted, pour it into the box of the etching machine and cover the lid.
2. Turn on
The etching machine uses a 380V power supply. Turn on the power switch, the power indicator light is on. Start the acid pump, let the ferric chloride solution circulate in the machine, and observe that the temperature gauge cannot exceed 50 degrees. Press the conveyor belt switch to perform a test run of the whole machine.
3. Trial
The conveyor belt of this precision swing etching machine can be steplessly adjusted, and the length of the scouring time can be adjusted here.
After the etching machine is running normally, first put a stainless steel plate for trial engraving at the material inlet, and the conveyor belt will slowly send it into the machine. Pressing the etching switch, the nozzle in the machine starts to spray ferric chloride solution, and its pressure is basically constant. The ferric chloride solution continuously washes the surface of the stainless steel plate, and the ferric ions in the solution quickly oxidize the stainless steel plate, and the stainless steel plate is etched down.
The length of the scouring time determines the depth of the etching.
Tip: If the etching is too deep, increase the speed of the conveyor belt: if the etching is too shallow, reduce the speed of the conveyor belt.
After about 3 minutes, we can get the sample engraved stainless steel plate at the discharge port, and try to touch the depth of the etching with our hands. If you feel a bit high and low on your fingers, the depth at this time is about 0.1 mm. Official etching begins.
4. Formal etching
Put the two stainless steel plates with the solid film and the anti-corrosion protective film on the reverse side at the appropriate position of the feed inlet, press the etching switch, and the etching machine will begin to etch the stainless steel plate. After 3 minutes, we are in The two stainless steel plates seen at the discharge port, check carefully, and like this, the etching effect we require is achieved.
5. Fading
Put the etched stainless steel plate into clean water first, and wash off the ferric chloride solution with a clean cloth. Then put it in another container filled with clean water, swing a few times to wash the surface, then tear off the anti-corrosion protective film on the back of the stainless steel plate, and place the two stainless steel plates on the solid sodium hydroxide. In the container, add 70 to 80 degrees hot water at a ratio of about 1:10 and swing the container to fully dissolve the sodium hydroxide. We can see that the remaining film on the two stainless steel plates will slowly fade away. Swing until the water temperature is 20 or 30 degrees before you can wipe them with a clean cloth. Then put the stainless steel plate into a bucket filled with clean water for rinsing.
The semi-finished etched sign looks like this. Just let it dry naturally.

Common-sign-making-process-(4)

Ink or other chemical reagents are used in conventional practices, which will certainly pollute the environment. With the advancement of science and technology, there will be better processing techniques for the production of signs.
1. Paint film carving method:
It is a kind of manual plate making method, which is relatively simple. It can print monochromatic patterns and characters that are generally not too delicate.
⑴Spray engraving paint film paper: paste the tracing paper on the flat wood plate, use a pen to adjust 1 part of rubber water (volume ratio), 1 part of gasoline, and evenly spread on the paper, dry After spraying the soft varnish 3-5 times, after each spraying, dry it in an oven at 40-50 degrees. The thickness of the paint film should be sprayed to 5-6 mm. The paint film should be bright, uniform, without bubbles, and stain.
⑵Carving graphics: Paste the paint film paper on the graphics, use a carving knife, compass knife, and ruler to carve the graphics, and gently remove the paint film.
⑶ Reposting: After engraving the graphics, it can be reposted on the screen frame made in advance. The method is to place the carved paint film under the screen frame and press it tightly, and gently rub it with cotton dampened with a little thinner until the paint film and the screen are firmly adhered. After drying for a few minutes, remove the tracing paper. If the paper is not all off, wipe it with cotton dampened with water. The blank part is coated with nitrocellulose paint to block the mesh of the screen. It can be printed after drying.
2. Carbon paper printing method:
It is also a simpler manual plate making method.
⑴Cut photosensitive paper: photosensitive paper is a kind of carbon paper made by thickly coating with oxygen and barium base paper, which is cut according to the size of the figure for use.
⑵ Sensitization: soak in a solution of 500 milliliters and 20 grams of ammonium dichromate for 3-5 minutes, take out the carbon paper, and drain the water.
(3) Exposure: Stick the carbon paper flat on the clean glass, with the glue film facing upward, cover the positive polyester film base plate on the top, and use the exposure machine for exposure. The exposure time is 8-12 minutes.
⑷Development: After exposure, soak in 40~50°C warm water for several minutes to make the film and positive plate and zinc oxide base paper separate naturally. Use warm water to develop carefully until the force-shaped characters are clear.
⑸Reposting: Put the prepared plate under the frame of the pre-stretched screen, cover several layers of newspaper on the screen, press the glass plate, and press it with a weight of 1-2 kg/cm2. At this time, the film Stick it firmly to the screen, remove the heavy objects and newspapers, use an electric oven to dry the film, and then remove the base paper, the film graphics will be transferred to the screen. Carefully check the graphics for defects. After passing the test, coat the screen around the graphics with a layer of nitro enamel for protection, and install the screen printing plate on the printing plate for printing. The scope of application of this plate-making method is the same as the paint film engraving method.
3. Photosensitive plate-making method: The printing plate used for silk-screening signs requires high precision, and generally adopts three advanced photosensitive plate-making methods: direct, indirect and direct.
A. Direct plate making method:
⑴ The post frame uses aluminum frame, and does not need to stretch the net. The air pressure is 5-6 kg/cm². The acetal adhesive net is used. The tension is measured by tension. The tension is 5-7 kg. The sink size should be Less than 2 mm.
⑵Cleaning the screen: Use washing powder, detergent, ethanol, etc. as a detergent to clean both sides of the screen, rinse with water, and dry it with hot air for use. The purpose is to make the net better bond with the photosensitive glue.
⑶Scraper (coating bucket, coater): The squeegee for coating photosensitive glue can be made of stainless steel, or it can be made of organic glass plate. Its length is generally slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the screen frame (make a set of scrapers with different lengths) B. The edge of the scraper must be thin and not edged, smooth and straight, and not allowed to have defects such as bumps, burrs, scars, etc., to affect the quality of plate making. When coating the screen photosensitive glue, dry it every three times, and it needs to be done continuously 3-4 times until the glue film reaches the required thickness before exposure.
⑷The temperature of the drying oven is preferably an adjustable temperature drying oven. The drying temperature of the photosensitive adhesive is generally controlled at about 40 degrees. If the baking time is too long or the temperature is too high, the quality of the photosensitive layer will be affected.
⑸Safety light: The lighting source of the studio generally uses orange, yellow or red light as the safety light, but from the visual point of view, the orange-yellow light source is more comfortable. Its brightness is suitable to be able to see everything clearly.
⑹Inspect the base plate: Before printing, the base plate must be carefully inspected, including dust on the plate surface, blackness of the base plate, line breaks, sand hole defects, etc. and whether the front and back of the image and text meet the requirements.
B. Indirect manufacturing method:
⑴Prepare the screen frame and photosensitive film: Wash the stretched screen frame (220-260 mesh for nylon wire) with 10% sodium phosphate aqueous solution to remove oil stains.
The wire mesh photosensitive film is a kind of photosensitive glue with polyenol glue as the main body. The film film is coated with gelatin as the main photosensitive agent on a transparent plastic base of 0.12-0.06 mm. Before use, it is connected to the size of the pattern, and each side is wide. Use a cloth to wipe off the powder dirt on the membrane.
⑵Exposure: Press the film and the bottom plate tightly in the exposure machine, and use carbon lamp or xenon lamp for exposure. The distance between the screen frame and the light source is 50-60 cm, and the exposure time is 2-6 minutes.
⑶Development: After exposure, put the phenanthrene film on a flat plate, soak the retina with warm water for 1-2 minutes, spray with a water nozzle, and dissolve the non-photosensitive part (graphic part) with the water after printing and development until the pattern So far.
⑷Film film: stick the exposed film surface on the screen, use a rubber plate or other straight board on the back of the human film, gently scrape it to make the film and the net contact firmly, immediately put it in the oven at a temperature of 55± Bake for 8-12 minutes at 2 degrees. After drying, fix the screen frame on the printing plate for trial printing.
⑹ Film removal method: In the process of exposure and development, if the plate is found to be unqualified, immediately use warm water to brush off the film and make it again. If the plate has been dried or when the film is removed after a period of production, use one part each of industrial sodium hypochlorite and water and soak for 10-20 minutes. Or the screen plate can be heated with 5% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution to remove the film.
C. Direct plate making method:
The direct method is a mixed plate-making method of the direct method and the indirect method. It is different from the indirect method in that the indirect method first applies the image on the film film and then transfers the image to the screen, while the direct method first applies the film film After reposting on the silk screen, it is exposed to make an image.